Is this a glazed china ornament? Is it a plastic peach? No, it is, of course, a meat fruit, c.1500, made from mandarin, chicken liver parfait and grilled bread.
All this can only mean one thing – Heston Blumenthal has finally come to London, this morning cutting the ribbon to open his restaurant Dinner By Heston (we’re a bit disappointed the ribbon wasn’t made from a massive rasher of bacon, or solidified strawberry jam or something…). Set in the marbled halls of the Mandarin Oriental, this place is a far cry from Bray, and the food will move away from the snail’s porridge – but not very far.
Heston and head chef Ashley Palmer-Watts are drawing on British food heritage for the new restaurant, and the dishes on the menu come with dates; for starters, you can have Salamagundy from 1720 (chicken oysters, bone marrow and horseradish cream), or Savoury Porridge anno 1660 (made from pickled beetroot and cod cheeks).
Sara, managing editor